A Short History of Men's Jewelry

Story · Men's jewelry

For most of history jewelry was never just decoration. It showed rank, protected the wearer, sealed documents or told others which group a man belonged to. Here is how that story led to the simple stone-and-silver pieces men wear today.

Onyx and Tiger's Eye Byzantine Cross Necklace, 8mm | Castello Jewels
OldestShell beads
AncientEgypt, Greece, Rome
MeaningRank and protection
TodayStone and silver

Before metal: shells, teeth and beads

The oldest known jewelry is made of shell beads, found at sites tens of thousands of years old. Early people also strung animal teeth, bones and carved stone. These were personal marks: a sign of a successful hunter, a family tie or a protective charm.

Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia

In Egypt, men and women wore gold, carnelian and blue lapis lazuli. Amulets in the shape of scarabs and eyes were believed to protect the wearer in life and after it. In Mesopotamia, small carved cylinder seals were worn on cords and rolled onto clay to sign agreements, so jewelry doubled as a personal signature.

The first signature was a piece of jewelry.

Greece and Rome: the signet ring

Greek and Roman men wore signet rings engraved with a personal image to seal letters and documents. Rank could be shown by the metal and the size of a ring. This is where the engraved ring and the family crest begin.

The Middle Ages and the Renaissance

In medieval Europe jewelry was bound up with status and religion. Crosses, rings of office and clasps were common, and in some places laws limited who could wear which metals and stones. By the Renaissance, courtiers wore pearls, chains and earrings openly as a display of wealth and taste.

Silver, protection and craft

Silver has long been worked into amulets, crosses and arm rings across Europe and the Mediterranean. In Greece, the Byzantine tradition left a lasting style of crosses and strung beads that still shapes how cross jewelry looks today.

The 20th century: from watches to beads

In the 1900s the wristwatch became the one accepted wrist accessory for men, and other jewelry was seen as optional. Then each decade brought it back: chains and rings from rock and hip-hop, leather cords and surf beads, and later the rise of natural stone bracelets.

Today: stones, silver and personal meaning

Modern men's jewelry is quieter than in the Renaissance but carries the same ideas: material, craft and meaning. Beads of onyx, tiger's eye and lava stone in sterling silver are popular because they are durable, easy to style and personal.

Questions people ask

When did men start wearing jewelry?

As far back as we have evidence. Early beads and ornaments made of shell and bone are tens of thousands of years old.

Why did men stop wearing jewelry for a while?

In many Western countries, fashions in the 19th and 20th centuries pushed men toward plain clothing and a watch as the only accessory. Jewelry returned gradually after that.

What is the oldest type of men's jewelry still worn?

Rings and bead strings. Both appear in ancient cultures and are still common today.

Why is silver popular in men's jewelry?

It is durable, versatile, easy to care for and has a quiet look that suits natural stones.

Our Aegean and Ancient lines draw on this heritage.
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